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Home >> CaseEtc >> Articles >> 

Click to enlarge

Dual Voltage Dual LED 12v/off/7v Baybus

By Cole Dudley. Originally published on CaseEtc.com, which has now been acquired by Directron.com.

Page 1 2 3 4 5

7 Volts?

No, the standard PSU voltages have not changed, so there is no actual 7v wire. To achieve 7v, you must use the 5v wire as a ground for your fan, thus giving 7 volts.

The yellow wire is 12v, the two black wires are grounds, and the red is the 5v wire.

The Faceplate

The setup I've decided to do is a simple four-switch/eight LED setup for a total of 12 holes. It is important that each hole has proper alignment or it will look funny in the end. Since I make a lot of Baybuses, I use a CAD program and draw the holes, and then made a template out of Aluminum. With most of the parts used from my store, a 1/4in bit would be used to drill the holes. Of course, since you would be drilling plastic, don't operate the drill at full speed so the plastic does not melt. If you do have a bit of melting, a razor blade will scrape it right off.

If you do not have a template made, there are a few things you can do to still align things properly. One trick is to draw a grid on the faceplate, and then just use the squares to determine where to place the holes. We also recommend using a center punch to mark the center of the hole. Only hit the nail or punch once, which’ll do it. Another common mishap is not drawing square and parallel lines with the faceplate. A slope isn’t very noticeable, until you are completed. So check, and recheck this stuff.

Project Box

A project box isn’t necessary, but it really helps complete the design. For this Baybus, you will need 4 holes in the front, 4 on the top and bottom, and then holes for the speaker terminal, and binding post on the back. If you have noticed, this is a similar method as used at Fanbus.com, basically because Cliff kicks ass, and I’ve tried it many ways and this setup is my favorite. Props to Cliff for coming up with it.

 

You should also use a Dremel, or knife to grind off the knobby things near the screw posts. Here is what the project box should look like in the end.

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