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Home >> CaseEtc >> Articles >> 

Click to enlarge

Dual Voltage Dual LED 12v/off/7v Baybus

By Cole Dudley. Originally published on CaseEtc.com, which has now been acquired by Directron.com.

Page 1 2 3 4 5

The Switches

Check out the schematic to get the basic gist of what we are trying to accomplish. Dual Pole Double Throw, or DPDT, switches have six terminals on the back. A picture or schematic explains this best, but here the simple text of what goes where. As for deciphering the schematic, I used about any color I could find to distinguish different wirings. Don't make fun of my retarded Photoshop skills.

  • Top Left Terminal ?Ground Out to Fan
  • Top Right Terminal ?Ground Out for bottom LED (green)
  • Middle Left Terminal - 5v IN from PSU
  • Middle Right Terminal ?Ground IN from PSU
  • Bottom Left Terminal ?Ground Out for top LED (blue)
  • Bottom Right Terminal ?Connects to Top-Left Terminal

As you can see, there is quite a bit of wiring to be done for the switches. I recommend you use solid stranded 22awg wire and 1/8th Heatshrink for the cleanest wiring of the switches.

Try and use as little solder as possible when connecting the wires to the switches, and do it quickly so there isn’t too much heat transferring onto the switch.

The first part of the wiring should be the 5v and Ground wires. Start with two 3-4-inch pieces and connect them to the first switch. Depending on how far apart your switches are, cut the wire accordingly and connect the wire middle-left terminal to the middle-left terminal of the other switches, and then do the same with the middle-right terminal.

First part of the wiring is over, now time to move on to the wires that connect to the speaker terminal. Unlike other Baybuses, this unit changes the ground current instead of the 12v current. That means we can connect all the 12v wires to one place, and use every position of the speaker terminal for a ground terminal. The basis here is to connect a ground-out from the switch. To save on wiring, you can use a small wire to connect the bottom, right terminal to the top-left terminal, and kill two birds with one stone, by connecing the top-left terminals to the speaker terminals. Confused yet?

This is kind of hard to make out, but it shows the wire from the top-left terminal to the speaker terminal.

The concluding part of the switch wiring is pretty simple. For this, you will need to strip the ends of the LED Cables. You should have eight LED cables, and sixteen wires in all. Each cable has a white and black wire. Set the white wires aside, all we will use now is the black ones. There are two terminals left on the switch, just solder a black wire to each of them…that’s it. Assuming you haven’t screwed up, each terminal on the switch should now be covered.

Here is a picture of our progress so far, now on to the resistor network, and wiring the positive LED’s.

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