Dual Voltage Dual LED 12v/off/7v Baybus
By Cole Dudley. Originally published on CaseEtc.com, which has now been acquired by Directron.com.
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The Resistor
Network and Positive LED Leads
In a setup
with this many LED's, individual resistors would be a hassle that I, for one,
do not want to deal with. To eliminate this problem, I have chosen to use a
resistor network. The resistor network is reminiscent of a comb, and is very
easy to use.
Before we
begin on the resistor network wiring, I want to touch up on the correct resistance
values for our LEDs. They are 2.0v, so when using the resistance equation, it
comes up to 500ohms, well, anything within 100ohm is just fine for LEDs, so
I use 470ohms for the LEDs in my units. Here is the equation anyway.
Resistance
= (Voltage Supply ?Voltage Forward)/Current
So
in this situation, in which our LED's have a voltage of 2v and the current
is 20mA.
Resistance
= (12-2)/0.020
Resistance
= 500ohm
Like I said,
though, anything within 100ohms will be just fine for this project, so the 470ohm
Resistor Network fits in nicely.
Okay, back
to the wiring of the resistor network. Since current will go to either the top
LED or the bottom LED, the positive LED wires can "share" terminals
on the resistor network. Before you worry about connecting the LED's to the
resistor network, you have to hook up the 12v system to one end of the resistor
network. We haven't ventured into hooking any 12v sources up yet, and it will
be detailed later in the article. For now, just run a wire off either end of
the resistor network.
There should
be a terminal for each white LED cable wire, but if not, no big deal. There
is no problem with connecting to wire to one terminal on the resistor network.
Try and be quick with the job, because too much pressure on the resistor network
terminals could break off the terminal.
Set this
aside while we finish the last few things?/font>
Final
Assemblies
The last
couple things to attach are the speaker terminal and the binding post. The speaker
terminal needs six holes ?four for the terminals, and two for the screws. Any
size bit will do, I used a 3/16 to do the terminal holes, and also the screw
holes. The terminals didn't come with screws, but fan screws work quite well.
Don't over-tighten it, or it will warp the side of the project box. Installment
of the binding screw shouldn't be difficult at all. Just position it where it
won't interfere with the screw poles for the project box, drill the hole, and
place it in the hole.

Take the
soldering plate from the binding post, and use about a 5-inch wire and solder
it on. Get the resistor network, and solder the 12v-in wire to the soldering
plate. Place the plate on the binding post, and secure it with the nuts.

Find the
ground-out wires from the switches. It shold be the top-left terminal. Run that
wire, and connect each one to a speaker terminal.
Only three
wires left to mess with, the incoming 12v, 5v and ground wires. Run all three
wires out the project box (the leftover hole on the side). It is best if you
have a couple inches to work with, but if not, you will still manage just fine.
Strip off the ends of the wires, and place male Molex pins on them, secure with
heatshrink. Snap the pins in the connector, and you are set with the powering
side of things.

Route the
LED cables out the top and bottom of the project box, and close the lid. I recommend
you only use one screw to secure the box for now…because if you make a mistake,
you will have to reenter the box, and the screw holes will probably strip, since
they aren't made for that much usage.
Place LED's
in the ends of the cables, and test the unit. If the LED's illuminate, everything
has been wired correctly. Go ahead and grab a fan to test with. Plug the ground
into ANY of the speaker terminals, and attach the 12v wire to the binding post.
Fire ‘er up again, and see if the fan works. If it operates at full speed, and
a slower speed, congratulations, you just made a Baybus that few people have
successfully made. The task is not complete, yet, read on grasshoppa'…
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