 |  | |
Case Work for a Quiet PCPart III in How to Build a Quiet PC with AMD 850MHz CPU
by Taliesin Akin
 To house all this, I got a 999J Mid-tower ATX Case (see the picture on the left) with three 5.4?drive bays and two 3.5?drive bays and one hidden bay (for the hard drive). ATX is the current standard for cases, the most obvious result of which is that the I/O connections for the keyboard and mouse are smaller than with the earlier AT from factor. You can still use older AT keyboards and mice, however. You just need to buy an AT-ATX adapter (most often they are called AT-PS2 adapters, just to be confusing).
  Attaching the feet: Find the circular indentions for the feet on the bottom of the case (see the picture on the left). Align the tabs on the back of the feet with the holes and press the feet firmly into the case (see the picture on the right). The feet should twist freely when installed completely.
Applying Dynamat Sound Dampening: Dynamat (see the picture below) is a sound dampening material that will help reduce the overall noise level of your PC. Apply it to all surfaces of the inside of the case, being careful not to obstruct air vents. (Even though the air vents of the case will provide an escape for sound, you don’t want to have your CPU overheat by blocking the cool air supply).
 
First, remove the side panels of the case and find the screws for the color plastic front (or the "bezel") of the case (see the picture above). There are two on each side of the bezel. You may need to remove the motherboard tray to have enough room to remove the bezel screws on that side. Gently remove the bezel and lay it aside.
 Now you have access to all the screws that secure the top cover of the case. There are two in the front, two in the back, and one on each side. Remove these and remove the top cover. Measure the area of the cover and cut a sheet of Dynamat using a razor blade to fit the. When applying the Dynamat, remove the brown release liner in sections to allow better control of your application (see the picture on the left). Apply either with the Dynamat roller tool (sold separately) or something round and hard like a shot glass or a size D or C battery. Make sure there are no air bubbles between the cover and the Dynamat. If you do get air bubbles, you can poke a hole in them with a razor blade and work the air out with your roller. Really squash the material down at the edges so that there is enough room for the screw holes to align when you put the cover back on. Wait until you have all the panels covered before you replace the top cover. This way, if you have any material left over, you can still apply it to areas that may be hard to get to with the top cover on.
 For each side panel, cut out a piece that fits the area. Be sure not to cover the edge at the back that is flush with the back corner of the case, otherwise, you will not be able to get the panel back on the case. Cut out holes in the material for the air vents so that your CPU can stay cool. Peel of the backing and apply (see the picture on the left).
Use the scraps for the front of the case, underneath the bezel (see the picture below).
For the bottom of the case, cut out a sheet of Dynamat to fit and remove space for the feet to poke through. Allow a space for the system speaker as well (see the picture below).
Turns out that I have some material left over, so I decided to apply it to the noisiest part of the PC—the Power Supply (see the picture below).
 Inserting drives into Drive Bays: Remove both side panels by unscrewing the four screws that hold them from the back (see the picture on the left). (When working with computers, it helps to have a magnetic tip screwdriver so your screws don’t fall somewhere inaccessible when you loosen them). Press against the panel and slide it back until it is detached. Then lift the panel off and set it aside. Do not worry about which panel is which, they are interchangeable. (When working inside computer cases, remember that many computer cases have rough-cut metal edges inside that will cut you if you are not careful. This case actually has most of its edges rounded, but somehow, I always manage to find the ones that aren't.)
 You will need to remove the faceplate of any drive you wish to install first (except for the hidden drive bay). To do this, look inside the case for the clips on the back of the faceplate (see the picture on the right). Pull one clip gently towards the center to detach it from the case (you may need to use a flathead screwdriver to do this).
  Push the faceplate out of the front end of the case (see the pictures above).
  Slide the drive into the bay from the front of the computer (see the pictures above).
 Align the screw holes and secure the screws on both sides. Tighten the screws snugly, but not too tightly (see the picture on the left). If you tighten them too much, they may strip whey you try to remove them again. Making a snug fit will help prevent vibration from a drive that sits loose in its bay.
 To install a drive (such as a hard drive) in the hidden bay, simply slide the drive in from the back and secure it with the mounting screws (see the picture on the right). Handle the drive by the edges to ensure that you do not pass an electrostatic charge to the circuitry.
  Installing the Optional Case Fan: A case fan is optional, but helps keep the overall temperature of the case down, and so is recommended. Higher MHz coprocessors tend to generate more heat and so require better cooling mechanisms. A case fan can help with this. Many newer motherboards have connectors for several case fans, so you may place the case fan anywhere you wish. Feel free to use super glue to attach the fan to the case (but don’t glue it to any circuitry!) To install a fan, first remove the left side panel. The fan mount is located at the bottom front of the case (see the picture on the left). Remove it by releasing the clips on the outside of the case. Find them by reaching under the bezel. Once the fan mount is removed, insert the case fan into the mount until it clips in (see the picture on the right). Return the fan mount to the case.
Connecting the Power Supply: Align the back side of the power supply to the case and mount it with the mounting screws (see the picture below).
 NEXT: | IV. Mounting the Components | V. Connecting the Components to the Motherboard | VI. First Power Up | VII. Sound Assessment |
 BACK: | I. Reasons to Build a Quiet PC | II. Choosing Components |
OTHERS: | Go to Top | Directron Home | Other System Manuals |
|
|
Shipping Policy |
|
Customer Services |
|
Payment Policy |
|
|
Est. Shipping
Cost
Time-in-Transit Map
FAQ - Shipping
Top Reasons for
Delays
UPS,
FedEx,
Postal
Office
Walk-in Sales
APO/FPO Shipping
International
Tracking Orders |
Return Rates
Store Statistics
Customer Satisfaction
Account Applications
Frequent Errors
FAQ-Services
FAQ-Tech Support
Newsletter
Order Status |
Credit Card via Phone
Purchase Order
Prepay, PayPal
Resellers
Corporate
Schools,
Government
Terms & Conditions
Price & Tax
FAQ-Payment
|
|
Top Brands |
|
Abit,
Acer,
AMD, Antec,
AOpen,
Asus,
ATI,
Biostar,
Buffalo,
Cooler Master, Corsair, Creative, Dell, D-Link,
Enermax,
FSP,
Gigabyte,
Hauppauge,
HP,
Intel,
InWin,
Kingston,
Lenovo,
Lian-Li,
Linksys,
Lite-On,
Logisys,
Logitech,
Maxtor,
Microsoft,
MSI,
Mushkin,
Netgear,
OCZ,
Seagate,
Shuttle,
Sony,
SuperMicro,
ThermalTake,
Vantec,
ViewSonic,
Western Digital,
XFX,
Zalman.
|
Have a question about our products, services or technical issues?
Find the answer instantly! Type your question or key words in English:
95% email/ phone questions already have answers on our web site.
|
Copyright (c) 1997-2009 Directron.com, Inc., Houston, Texas
Buy -
Sell -
Trade -
Build -
Repair -
Upgrade -
Help -
Troubleshoot -
Shopping
Computers -
Laptops -
Servers -
Hardware -
Parts -
Software -
Peripherals -
Services
High Quality -
Low Prices -
Discount Shop -
Large Selection -
Free Products -
Fast Shipping
Affiliates: Dallas Computer Store - San Antonio Computer Store - K12 Education Computer Systems |
| |
Customer Feedback through Yahoo!
