The Rheostat Baybus

Quick Installation Guide: Rheostat Baybus

1. Remove materials from boxes, and clear an area to work with the appropriate tools.
2. Start measuring the project box and the faceplate. Take as much time as needed in this stage, as the measuring is crucial in the end. After you have decided upon where to place the rheostats, drill holes for the LED, rheostats, and switch on the faceplate. The rheostats, switches and LED holders both use 1/4^th-in drill bits. Temporarily secure the project box to the faceplate, and use the faceplate as a template to drill the project box holes.
3. You should only need one hole on top if you follow suit of the kit, and that is for the LED cable. The next hole is on either of the sides, it should be big enough to get the power supply wires in, plus anything else you need going in. Two sets of holes left. Use a small bit, and drill a hole for the binding post. Then measure out the holes for the speaker terminal, and drill holes for it. Don’t forget about screw holes for the terminal.
4. Wire from the 12v PSU source to the middle terminal on the SPST switch.
5. Make a wiring from the top terminal on the SPST switch, to the middle connector of each rheostat.
6. Connect a resistor to the top terminal also, from there, attach the white lead of the LED cable.
7. Each rheostat should have 3 prongs. Clip one prong off on each one, because it will just get in the way. Clip off the same prong on each stat.
8. From the remaining prongs, cut and strip the end of four wires and solder one per rheostat. The other end will connect to the speaker terminal when the time is right.
9. Tape, screw, whatever, mount the speaker terminal to the project box along with the binding post. Solder the wires from the rheostats to each terminal.
10. Connect the ground from the PSU to the binding post. Connect the black cable from the LED to the binding post.
11. Seal up the project box, and mount it to the front panel. Place the knobs on the rheostats. For the aluminum knobs, use a 5/64 Allen wrench, and for the 12.5W knobs, use a small screwdriver.
12. Connect the 12v wire from the fan to the speaker terminal, and the ground to the binding post. Here is a diagram of what everything should look like.



13. I hope you had fun on the project, I am happy to supply you with the materials to do so. If you have any questions, comments, or just think your Fanbus rules, contact me at cole_NOSPAM@directron.us (remove _NOSPAM manually). Thank you.

For a more in-depth guide with pictures, be sure to check out the article section of CaseEtc and look for the appropriate article. http://www.directron.com/caseetc.html